The Harmattan Guide: December in Accra
It’s September, I know. But if you’re planning to go to Accra this December and you haven’t bought your ticket yet you’re not serious. This guide is for people who are serious about their December experience in Accra, Ghana. December is always a good time and although I’m not going to Accra this December (I know, I’ll regret this), here is a guide for you. If you’ll be visiting Accra for the first time in December thank your stars, help has arrived.
Obroni
For our white friends who will be visiting Accra for the first time, you will most likely be called this word. Obroni is a Twi word for white person. If you’re in a crowd and you hear the word Obroni then they are probably referring to you. Over time, the word has been used to describe Asians like the Chinese until they did us wrong and started mining our gold illegally. Sorry wrong topic. Children will call you this especially if they see you walking around. Please don’t pull out your camera and just capture them without parental consent. You can’t do this in your respective countries, so keep the same energy.
Borga
You need to be aware of the term borga. Borga is a term used to describe a Ghanaian man/woman who travelled overseas and has returned for a short time. My uncle lost his borga title when news got around that he overstayed his visa. The term is only limited to travelers to America and Europe although now travelers to Asia are being considered. Sorry if you moved to Nigeria briefly for work or school (I don’t know why you would), you cannot earn this title. People usually call you borga when they want something from you, so they say it to stroke your ego. It’s like an accolade. You have to be willing to pay for everything when you go out with friends. I mean money grows from trees in America doesn’t it? Pay up! Also, there’s no such thing as splitting the bill, can you please respect yourself?
Traffic
Since all of you are tracing your ancestry and giving your DNA out to random strangers by mail, please note that there are many others like you doing the same and coming to the motherland during this time. I really detest the word motherland. Anyway, I digress. Accra is very small and this is where most of the fun happens. Although the government launched Homecoming aka Year of Return this year, they forgot to build the infrastructure to go with it so we I apologize for the incompetence. Be prepared to spend your entire day in traffic. I already feel bad for you. One thing about traffic that you will find fascinating are people hawking on the streets. You’ll find people selling all sorts of things from sunglasses, to paintings to yoghurt. For your first traffic experience, consider buying fan milk yogurt. These come in three main flavors translated for you (fan milk = vanilla, fan yogo = strawberry, fan choco = chocolate) and no you will not need a spoon to enjoy it.
Fanmilk flavors via @fanyogoghana
The key to buying in traffic is to be considerate. As soon as the lights turn red, look for what you want to buy and signal the hawker over. Sometimes your driver can help you draw attention the hawker if they are far away. Never give your money first, make sure you exchange your money and the item at the same time. Since you will be spending a huge portion of your time in traffic, it’s not all bad. At least you won’t die of thirst or hunger. Also, you will be thoroughly entertained but wear your seatbelt. If you’re in an uber or taxi, ensure that the seatbelt is clean before you strap it on, so you don’t leave dirt marks on your clothes. Your driver might have a rag for this. Remember Accra is dusty during this time. If you’re in a trotro don’t worry about a seatbelt, you’re living life on the edge. YOLO!
Transportation
If you’re in town and you don’t have a designated driver or your own car, be prepared to spend a lot of money on transportation. Regardless of your situation, you will still spend a lot of money unless you have a sponsor. This is the time to start responding to that Ghanaian man or woman in your dms who wants to marry you. Allow them to be your designated driver, you will save a lot of money that way. Please do not heed to my advice, I’m joking.
For more economical options consider taking a trotro i.e. local buses. You need to be a local to use these well or at least take it a few times with someone who takes trotro. You won’t find trotros on google maps so please put your phone away. I have lived in Accra for 18 years and still don’t know how to use it. If you really don’t want the stress, Accra has uber and taxis. Uber will charge you relatively fair prices compared to a taxi. The taxi drivers basically scan you from the top of your head to the soles of your feet and give you a price based on how you look, speak or how much sales they need to make to meet their daily target. Drop the accent and learn to say a few things in Twi. Whatever price they tell you, always haggle.
If you’re taking an uber, expect to beg your uber driver to turn on the AC. Accra is also humid and dusty during this time. If you’re unlucky your uber driver may run personal errands during your trip or hit on you if you’re a female and he’s a male. Please be mindful of Uber surges during this time, they are inevitable during rush hour so good luck. Ubers here give you a pay by card or cash option. Ghanaian uber drivers do not like customers who pay by card, they will definitely rate you one star. Expect your driver to ask you your mode of payment and possibly cancel your ride mid-trip if it’s not cash. To be forewarned, is to be forearmed. If you have your own car, please make sure the car is registered and you have a valid insurance and license to drive. I can’t use my Ghanaian license to drive in Boston, so obviously you can’t use your American drivers license to drive in Ghana and obviously Ghanaian policemen don’t take bribes. Get it?
Excursions
Go on excursions and learn about the Ghanaian culture. Although your primary objective is to enjoy your time in Accra, you should also learn about the history of the people. I mean is that not why you are here? There are many places in Accra and outside Accra where you can visit besides club hopping daily. You should check out the following places if you haven’t already: Cape Coast Castle (Central Region), Elmina Castle (Central Region), Kakum National Park (Central Region), Mole National Park (Northern Region), Manhyia Palace (Ashanti Region), Mountain Afadjato (Volta Region) just to name a few. Some of these places may require you to hop on a quick flight, take a bus or drive. For trips outside Accra that you can drive to, I will recommend renting a car and a driver and have a couple of friends join you. This is one of my favorite things to do when I’m home. If you’re able to go for a trip in the northern region, you can observe how shea butter is made and even buy for way cheaper than you would in Accra. For all the places you would like to visit outside Accra, please ask people what to expect in terms of weather and be well prepared. Please be informed that Ghana has more than 10 regions and Accra is the smallest region out of the 10. Although this is the most developed part of the country, you should consider visiting other nearby regions to see what they have to offer. Google is your friend.
Shea butter making in process. Photo credits: @gambi_know
Haggling
Learn to haggle. This is a very important skill to have. Especially when you go to the local market. The market women usually inflate the prices based on how you look and speak. Based on your needs, you can find a lot of affordable things here. If you want to buy souvenirs, to avoid the exorbitant prices in the malls, consider going to the market or the Arts center for these. Expect to be touched and dragged in the market. Please don’t haggle with an accent. You will not win.
Street Food
This is my favorite part about visiting Accra. Eating waakye i.e. rice and beans, with a side of spaghetti, egg and fish with beef stew and shito splattered on top of it wrapped in fresh banana leaves. This is a brunch favorite so be prepared to queue in line for this. Always make sure you have lower denominations. Change is always a hassle so make your life easy. If you have a weak stomach, please don’t hurt yourself. I’ve heard stories about people getting sick because the food was too spicy and their delicate stomachs couldn’t handle it. Please don’t drink tap water. Bottled water is fairly inexpensive and accessible everywhere even in traffic.
Waakye. Photo credits: @gambi_know
If you want to have a good time in Accra, make sure you follow pages that have all the turnup details. Some of these events are musical concerts, comedy shows, award shows, food and drink fairs, just to name a few. Since everyone is planning to go to Accra in December, be prepared for multiple events which will require you to split your body in several pieces. There’s a lot to do so get ready. You should also plan to get your tickets for events in advance so that you’re not stranded. Pro tip: Make sure you get VIP tickets if you can afford them if you’re claustrophobic like me. Accra likes to turn up, so be prepared for large crowds especially now that everyone has realized that there is a motherland. You might get to be installed as a chief if you’re lucky.
Hope you enjoy your time in Accra. My Ghanaian friends and lovers of Accra, if there’s anything I missed please share them in the comments!
